Cali
We headed straight for the San Antonio area which is the district for artisans, doctors and students alike. There was a refreshing breeze that blew away the border crossing blues and woke us up to what was clearly an exciting town. Their were young and old cheek by jowl on the streets sipping a beer which turned out to be rather tasty and well earned. Jaime our travel buddy nearly lost his toe in a crazy accident so we were limited to little movement despite this incidence that we could just leave him in a bar. We stuck by him and he rewarded our friendship with a great gift of chilled vino blanco around the sociable hour of 1 in the afternoon. 5 bottles of wine and a taxi later I had managed to leave my coat at the other bar. No matter we shall drink beer and sing Charles and Eddie and then we shall be ready to return to the original bar. Maybe we will eat at some point but who knows. The wine was a touch more than we had expected so we ended up hammered in a taxi with only dollars to our name. Nobody had a clue how much they were worth but they all made sure we were paying enough and we probably got the worst exchange rate in history. We certainly did not care at the time as not only had I found my jacket but we had some cash and the bar was open. Beers and double tequilas were followed by huge gaps in our memory which was only reinstalled the next day by Jaime video diary. We apparently ate pizza and Chantelle wanted it way before they served it. Watch this space for a video link - thanks Jamie.
We stayed in Casa Platypus which was nice but pricey, we were however convinced to stay there the whole time due to the most excellent breakfast and the promise of premiership football on a 32 inch screen. We strolled through the old town into the Plaza de Bolivar (every town in each of the 6 countries he liberated has one), watch chess for money, grabbed some churros, look at the Museo Botero to look at plump things, drank 2 for one cocktails, ate an incredible sandwich and a crepe, watched the Covent garden style entertainment, ate chorizo and sipped on hot alcoholic lime juice.
We also met up with Loza who was a welcome edition to the team with her hilarious northern phrase, her meticulously packed bag and her 2 week holiday enthusiasm.
We took all of these things and more of to Cartagena.
The flight to Cartagena takes 16 hours less than the bus from Bogota and also costs less. This is no doubt the reason that there were other travelers on the flight, one was a young Australian reading some classic literature. Books have been a great point of contact and discussion throughout the whole trip and once again literature brought us a little star in the name of Sally Dougall. She slotted straight in to the 5 man team and we have been with her ever since.
Cartagena has got to be one of the most happening and coolest place on the planet. We strolled into the stunning old town with the cool salty sea breeze in our faces and hopes in our hearts as it look like something special. The locals are very beautiful and on this particular evening were all dressed in white and someone mentioned they could be angels. They certainly dance like them as they paired up and the hit the streets to Salsa. I felt both awe and disappointment as I witnessed this spectacle. Awe at the grace and social aspect of something that was such great, innocent fun and that transcends both age and beauty. Disappointment at the fact that we do not have these rehearsed steps to move closer to each other without fear of ridicule and also that it was just so damn cool and I wanted it in my life. When you witness culture in this pure and simple form bringing everyone together smiling it really does warm your soul and make you feel alive.
We took a day trip to Isla Rosario and Playa Blanca. We were excited to get back on a boat and see some legendary Caribbean beaches. The excitement of being on a boat soon got pretty old after 4 hours and scorching relentless sun. Playa Blanca was the star and as I stepped off the boat an island dweller thrust an oyster in my mouth. Excited to be here and taken in by his smile I gave him the nod and he popped it open, gave a splash of fresh lime and mimicked the necessary slurping action. I did as instructed and was rewarded with a salty and tangy treat. My oyster odyssey was not over as it turns out that they was another one on the other side and before I knew I had another one in my mouth. I was about to walk away when he turned the oyster over and another juicy treat appeared. I could not quite fathom the oyster mystery but was reaching my limit and when I declined he became rather aggressive and started forcing it into mi cara (face), I asserted myself with a firm no gracias but he continued. I started to walk away and he started talking about money. It turned out not to be part of the tour and the amount he was asking for was silly. I offered him a fifth which was still generous and he and a Caribbean woman started to get very close. I started feeling uncomfortable. TRANQUILO, necissito espacio (clam down, I need space) gave me some room to breath and I took out my offered amount and handed it to him. He did not want to take it and kept talking about the higher amount so I made it simple for him and said if he did not want the 1000 pesos I would keep it. He snatched it and walked away. It is a shame that they have to be so aggressive and deceive you when they could clearly state a price and then everyone would know where they stood.
The actual meal was an island classic of coconut rice, salad and grilled fish served with ice cold sharp lemonade. Jaime and I had snorkeling for dessert and a rather good one it was to. The snorkels were rubbish with mine breaking and Jaime's having a leak. We sorted it out though and ended up seeing amazing fish and a sea snake. Our snorkel was interrupted by the boat leaving and once again a tour was badly designed, however we did all learn an important thing. That it really was time for the beach.
That beach turned out to be Palomino and we had an almost perfect 7 days there. We collected fresh fish and lobster in the morning, ate some fresh eggs for breakfast, lounged, read or swam into the afternoon. Hit town for some cold beers and ingredients for the next day, cooked coconut rice and prepared the salad. Swam in both tropical storms and phosphorenscence and had one of the best weeks so far. I know this is very recent and often experiences seem more momentous at the time but it really was a special place there with our own little farm and Carribean family (mama took us under her wing). There were animals aplenty to adore, stroke and fear. Mama even cried when we tipped her and said goodbye. I even bumped into Adam Hill who lives in the same village as me in England!
LOVE IT.....MISS YOU MISS YOU MISS YOU........X
ReplyDeleteThanks mate. Loving the gunners work today also. We miss you too.
ReplyDeleteChan and Joseph x