Pictures, People, Places - Entry 3 - Cambodia

Here's Siem Reap whoop whoop

Pictures, People, Places - Entry 2 - Malaysia

Here's Malaysia. Kuala Lumpur is reminiscent of London for me.  We lived in KL for 5/6 weeks at a wonderful guest house called Le Village, look out for the tea, Petronas, the Malaysian Prime Minister (who shook Joseph's hand),the forest being driven away in a truck, Chinese Dragons, waterfalls, sinking Land Rovers, the largest flower in the world, blow pipe skills and sunsets.

Don't Joke With a Hungry Barang.

I hope you are all doing fantastically well. I am good but rather hungry. I'll explain. After the 2nd heavy session on the booze in as many weeks I was speaking to an accordion player called Frank on the phone on the day of the hangover. He too was feeling rough but on one point we differed. He blamed me for playing good tunes as the extended party lasted until 3, I blamed him for stating it all off with his infectious grooves on the squeeze box. Either way I felt like hell. I shared this with Frank. Frank had a solution for when this feeling became a little bit too frequent. He does a detox twice a year and suggested that he would do it with me if I was willing.

The conditions are as follows:

Only coconut milk and water for 7 days (coconut milk has all the nutrients you need so don't worry parents. I actually heard a rumor that in poorer nations it is sometimes used intravenously - answers on a postcard)

I am currently on day 5 and have experienced of emotions from depression to elation. It is surprisingly good at preventing hunger although psychologically it is very strange no to be eating any food. Part of the problem is that you a given 3 hours or more every day that you save by not eating, digesting, cooking, cleaning. Time is normally a gift but these times have been some of the most difficult. Also nearly all my friends here are at work in the day giving me more time to kill and desire food.

I have been swimming everyday but don't want to run out of energy in the middle of the river. To spend some time in a different way as I am bored of reading, watching movies and now even cruising around on my motorbike, I decided to write an article about how I was feeling and the 2 opposites of indulgence and restraint. I really hope it resonates with you and that you either enjoy it or find it interesting on some level.

Don't Joke With a Hungry Barang.

Barang means French in Kymer but children often thought it meant foreigner. I don't know what the word for detox or fast is but based on the reaction of the few that I have told I imagine the translation is something along the lines of crazy fool. I'm on day 5 of 7 without any food except coconut milk and water. That is not a joke and I am certainly hungry but does that make me crazy? Or anybody else for that matter on a similar path of detoxification? Yes it is a little extreme but we have all experienced the other end of the continuum: Indulgence of one's appetites, desires, or inclinations. Think of christmas, buffets and birthdays. Or for many just a friday night out on the town.

This is the opposite of self-restraint and self-denial. But purification aside, is it important to have self restraint? To go without that which one wants?

Excess has always led to destruction of both the psychological and physiological realms:

The extreme overeater ultimately becomes obese. Obesity has a myriad of associated health problems and unquestionably has an adverse affect on self esteem. Low self esteem requires love and reassurance. A lack of these or the belief in them leads to searching for escape elsewhere. Comfort is most easily found in our desires. It is easy to see why they find release in more eating but also easy to see the problems this circle creates.

Even the good can become harmful if overdone. Exercise has great physical benefits and has been a cathartic tool through the ages. But even something that is constantly being recommended by medical and health professionals can be problematic in the extreme. Overuse injuries are well documented and can happen anywhere in the body (tennis elbow, jumpers knee, shin splints). They are the result of an accumulation of very minor injuries over time. This links to another example of the problems of excess; that of RSI. A very prevalent problem in the modern world of computers, typing and no doubt gamers in the future.

The evidence indicates that restraint on some level is definatley worthwhile. An ancient proverb says that “Whatever you do, do it in moderation”. Food excesses and in indulgences today have meant we have to be reminded that a balanced diet or lifestyle is best. Therefore the individual should stray only slighty from the path in either direction. Vice vs Virtue - a few beers cancelled out by the session in the gym, a greasy but delicious burger offset by not eating meat for a few days.

This is certainly not reflective of how society is today. But is it realistic or best to live our lives in this way? It is important to remember that excessive fun or laughter heals much. Also if you think of the world elite in any field I'm certain that nearly all of them got there with extremely hard work and almost excessive comittment and dedication to their discipline. Wilde pointed this out succinctly stating “Moderation is a fatal thing. Nothing succeeds like excess.”

So if excess not only exists in our world but is necessary for success in our culture is it still possible to find a balance? Scientifically this is very possible: In pivotal forces a 1 tonne weight on one side of a seesaw can easily be balanced be the same weight at equal distance on the other end as long as the plank is strong enough. Likewise in a mile long 50 mph speed trap if you drove 99.9 miles for the first half a mile and 0.1 for the second half you would never get a fine.

The plank snapping or the possiblity of crashing at 99.9 mph are real dangers and that is the reality of any excess. But I would rather live a life of extremes than be average all the time. Life is about experience and the highs and lows are the memories and moments that last the longest. They offer a contrast and perspective which is of a great benefit. After all you have never truly appreciated swallowing until you have had tonsilitus.

So if you can't find or don't want to find moderation atleast look for balance.

J.T.Davies 19/03/10

Cambodia's Got the Horn

Cambodia's Got The Horn

Cambodia began with the wonders of Watt. Say Waaaaatttttttt? Ankor Watt of course. The stunning natural beauty of the sun rising and falling over one of the man made marvels of the world. Nature has also grow into and around the stone temples and left an amazing hybrid of man vs wild. The light at dawn shining through the ruins and trees is truly something to behold.

It is easy in the nostalgic retelling to forget the begging children, the taxi cost bartering, the thousand other tourists tainting the feeling that you are doing anything special or unique and the stone cold fact that rock just looks like rock after 4 hours no matter how old or crafted.

That said if you take the three day pass, go for a few hours only at dusk and dawn, and go anticlockwise when the normal route is the other way, there are memorable and worthwhile times to be had at Ankor.

Siem Reep was pleasurable; Dr foot and his reflexology saw to those tired temple feet, international and bizzare cuisine (croc and spiders) satiated the hunger, and the happy hours keep the Ankor beer flowing for 50cents a mug.

The 'luxury' 6 hour bus to the capital Phnom Phen was not pleasurable, comfortable or luxury. Often the air con is much too high and these bus trips had been the only time so far that we had really needed our jackets. The reality of 6am was punctuated by the freezing bus, I congratulated the knowledgeable traveller Joseph for getting his Fleece out of his main backpack. This was the last positive thought I had for sometime.

The misery of the trip had several recurring themes:

The soundtrack of mumbled complaints and curses were overpowered by the loud and intrusive sounds of the buses horn. The unexaggerated average of 3 horn blasts per minute can be explained by the unofficial and plainly understood rules of the Cambodian road;

No road markings, 85% of traffic is small 125cc motorbikes, the relatively new introduction and uncompulsory nature of mirrors, no speed restrictions, narrow unruly roads and the undenible reality of being hit by a double decker bus. All vehicles when overtaking beep the horn several times and there is lots of overtaking. The sound of the ticking clock that you must block out to keep sane is the sound of the horn on the Cambodian road. every minute on every road is filled with a myriad of different horns. Cambodian really does have the horn.

Phnom Pehn round one; Reunited with a good friend (LOL - Love our Lottie), amazing food, crazy hedonistic aussies from Darwin (Big up the Dougie massive, ah yeaaaaahhhhhhh), a great cambodian tradition (5-7 every day is free exercise in all the parks), meeting Hannah (Epic in every way), Mutak and the best banana in town.

Tune in next time for all that is Kampot - Rusty's Ribs, Dirt road riding (that is not a euphamism), home made pies, covert brothels, a dog lost and found, some new friends and 5 days without food.

Joseph Davies 26/05/10

The Wonderful World of Kuala Lumpar

After a month on the beach we were ready for some urban adventure. Never one for strict and rigid plans when on the road we penciled in a week for KL and went from there. Several things happened to change this:

People make places what they are and Reza's continued presence was well worth investing some time in. The Hostel le village that we found was also full of interesting people and had an atmosphere that was very welcoming. Pirate DVDs, Art, and Music were liberally watered with free tea and water making this a place hard to leave.

Mine and Chantelle's taste buds make quite a lot of our decisions for us. When they are happy we are happy and in KL they were ecstatic. Rotti became our new staple and every back street offered an new gastro experience. It is a very multicultural place where Malay, Chinese and Indian cultures and food collide. The resulting food explosion is one to marvel and embrace.

The other thing making alot of decisions for every traveller is the budget. KL is very good to the budget. It invites it out to movies, shops and restaurants for practically no cost at all. Make no doubt that in KL you can live it up and still have some change.

There is one thing however that you don't really go out and do in KL in you care for your budget and that it drink. There is a very strong Muslim culture and they are not that keen for you to get your naughty hands on cheap beer. We had just spent a month indulging quite freely in Chang (until we found out first hand that it is basically poison), Tiger and Singha so some time off the beers was welcome. We also later found out that Whisky and Rum from the 7/11 was very affordable so when the desire arose we quenched it this way.

When we felt the need to put on tourist hats they was enough to satisfy also; waterfalls, the petronas, the worlds largest open air aviary, free swimming at the Hilton and some interesting jazz at the philharmonic. We also ventured to Molakka for some famous Satay and I shook the prime ministers hand. A 4 hour bus ride to us to the Cameron Highland for stunning tea plantations, learning the blow pipe with local tribes, and the 2 hour trek searching for Rafflesia (the worlds largest flower).

But I guess the main reason we stayed so long was that I got an acting job. I saw a poster and basically got in on the colour of my skin, my gender and my exquisite accent. I was to become a POW in a 6 part documentary/drama called Burgess. It was called 'akinabalu' which means people of the mountain. I had been caught stealing rations and spent the entire time in a cage festering in my own excretions and pain. I died, had a funeral, got beaten, begged for water, and screamed in agony throughout my 6 days on set and had an amazing time.

We left KL for Siem Reep Cambodia shortly after filming finished. And as they say in the industry

is a wrap.

Joseph Davies 07/05/10

Getting to Malaysia or How to Destroy all the Advantages of a Sleeper Train in Several Easy Steps

The best way to travel from southern Thailand (Koh Phangan) to KL Malaysia seemed to be get to the train station Surit Thani and go through the night, arriving early the next day at your destination. Due to the nature of the sleeper train they leave late in the evening as most people get their sleep in during that time. To get to Surit Tani required a very choppy and exciting long boat ride from Haad yuan, the amazing bay in Koh Phangan that we stayed at over the full moon/new years eve period - it was the first time they coincided for 30 years. Koh Phangan is the home to the infamous beach party which in many blogs and stories would take prime position, in our story lets just say we went, we saw, and then we went some where much nicer. We got absolutely soaked and luckily our bags that were filled with electrical goodies (lap top, camera, dj equip) did not. This is a moment when sun glasses double up as a retina screen for your eyes against the salt water assault. 

Next a tuc tuc to the ferry and a bus from the ferry port to the train station. When travelling in South East Asia is it important to remember that anything that can go wrong probably will so we left early. Of course as we left ample time for errors it was the smoothest set of transfers possible in Thailand and we arrived 10 hours early. 

Punctuality is underrated by the young, they believe it is a virtue of bored people that don't mind being lonely. It is a different story for adults and those in business. They have a personal interest that could and probably will be adversely affected by persistent lateness;

Interviews - no jobs given out to those who turn up late for interviews, think first impressions. Current employers  - warnings are swiftly followed by removal. Finally and probably most importantly friends - older and wiser people have fewer and therefore stronger friendships that they value more. Even Louis XVIII insisted that “Punctuality is the politeness of kings”.

Punctuality and being excessively early however are different. Imagine a world where turning up hours early for everything was expected, nothing would ever get done unless it could be whilst waiting for something else. You would have to spend even more time with your colleagues but out of a work context. This could however lead to closer and more tightly knit groups, surely leading to happier and more productive work places so maybe...............Don't be ridiculous!  Back to the train station. 

The advantages of the sleeper train are as follows:

1. You get to save money on that nights accomodation and therefore can deduct a nights accomodation off the price of the ticket

2. The act of moving from one place to another (also known as travelling) is very time consuming,  as is sleeping. The night train offers you a chance to kill 2 stones with one bird. 

This muddled up saying just about sums up how our night train experience failed to live up to any of its potential advantages. Arriving this early meant that no time was saved at all. Also as we had a border crossing during the journey they woke us up at 5 and made us fill in forms, answer questions, pack up, move and check through are stuff. It was impossible to stay half asleep though this process as you might when going to the toilet in the middle of the night but at least we could go back to sleep when we got back on the train. Wrong. They had packed up all of our beds and turned them into normal seats so that more people could get on the train. Hooray!!! Reza our travel companion quickly transformed his seat back into a bed with a speed that optimus prime would have been proud of. In the time it had taken me to force my sleep deprived mind into calculating that this would be a good idea and then putting the plan into action the guard had appeared. His words could easily be misunderstood and could have afforded an opportunity to claim ignorance and return to bed making and sleep but his tone assured me that the seats would remain as they were. The story tape (it was actually an audio book downloaded onto my ipod but my Mum brought them into my life and they will always be story tapes to me) came to my rescue and Chantelle's size (she can actually lie down on the seat) came to hers. 

We all lived happily ever after in KL. 

Joseph Davies 29/04/10